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  • You CAN teach an old dog new tricks!

Jeweller polishing diamond ring

Looking back, one of my proudest moments in life was starting in the jewellery trade as a sixteen-year-old apprentice. Learning the skills of a diamond mounter, as we are known, has helped give me the foundations for the work I do today. All the skills needed to understand the construction and framework, for what seems like a simple thing, were skilfully mastered in my first three years.

Technology, like in most industries today, plays a huge part in business. The jewellery trade is no different. Whether it’s a microscopic laser machine employed to determine the most economical way to carve up a rough diamond. Or a simple (scoff) Computer Aided Design (CAD), used to help bring a small idea to life prior to the client saying yes, it’s a sign of the changing times.

In that respect I’m quite old school. I’ve seen how some companies use CAD to butcher a piece of jewellery. I’ve also seen how some companies use it to the client's benefit. Each time I’ve come to the same conclusion. It’s not the CAD technician– who in most cases isn’t the jeweller – it's the jeweller who doesn't understand how to use CAD effectively.

Let’s take a ring for this example. My view, for what it’s worth, is the following. If the jeweller doesn’t have the basic understandings of the construction involved in creating the ring, then it won’t look special. And sadly, I am seeing this more and more. There is no afterthought about the design when done in CAD. Not with everyone, but it’s creeping in. Some afterthoughts include the following.

  1. Will the engagement ring sit flush alongside my wedding ring?
  2. Does the eternity ring sit too high on the finger, making wearing it uncomfortable?
  3. Will the chain slide through the pendant with ease? Will it sit straight?

I prefer to sit with my client and show some examples of previous work. Once we’ve been through the design of what’s required, I like to go back to the workshop and just get on making it old school. However, I do understand that some people need to have that CAD drawing just for a little peace of mind.

Well, I have some good news. I have taken on board a freelancer who is able to create great CAD designs. With my guidance and jewellery know how combined with his technical knowledge, we can come up with some fabulous images prior to construction. In this example, the client wanted a trilogy ring with diamonds on the shoulders. In this CAD drawing, we can see four different angles of what the finished ring will look like. This helped give the client peace of mind.

CAD drawing of trilogy ring with shoulders

It’s quite an involved detailed piece. Once the client gave me the go-ahead, I cracked on and made it old school. Back at the bench in the workshop by hand. The only real way I know how. Here's the end result.

In conclusion, I do embrace CAD technology. However, I always recommend that pieces are finished by hand and given a personal refinement. That’s how I go about things. It just makes it that much more personal. Even after thirty years in the trade, I can still learn something new! 

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Lewis Malka

Specialist Engagement rings made in Hatton Garden, London

Lewis Malka
London Diamond Bourse
100 Hatton Garden
London EC1N 8NX

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